How to Start & Operate a STIHL Chainsaw Safely
Step-by-step guide on cold starts, warm starts, chain tensioning, and essential safety checks before every use.
Table of Contents
Pre-Start Inspection
Every chainsaw session begins with a systematic inspection. Check the chain tension by lifting the chain at the center of the bar — the drive links should rise partially out of the groove but still remain engaged. Inspect the chain for damaged or missing cutters, and ensure the depth gauges are uniform.
Verify that the chain brake functions correctly by pushing the front hand guard forward — it should lock the chain immediately. Check fuel and oil levels. STIHL two-stroke engines require a 50:1 gasoline-to-oil mix. Never use straight gasoline or automotive oil. Inspect the air filter for debris and clean or replace if necessary.
Always wear cut-resistant chaps, a helmet with visor and hearing protection, heavy gloves, and steel-toe boots before starting any inspection.
Starting Procedure
For a cold start, engage the chain brake and set the master control lever to the cold start position. Place the saw on flat, stable ground with your right foot through the rear handle for stability. Pull the starter cord smoothly with full-length strokes. After the engine fires once or twice, move the lever to the partial choke position and pull again until the engine runs.
For a warm start, skip the choke position entirely. The engine should fire within 2-3 pulls. If the saw has been sitting for 15-30 minutes, a single pull with choke followed by an immediate switch to warm start may be needed. Never drop-start a chainsaw — always use the ground-start method.
Never operate a chainsaw with the chain brake disengaged. The brake is your primary defense against kickback injury.
Safe Cutting Techniques
Maintain a stable, balanced stance with your feet shoulder-width apart. Hold the front handle with your left hand and the rear handle with your right, keeping your body to the left of the bar plane. This positioning protects you from kickback trajectory.
Use the bottom of the bar for most cuts — this is where the chain pulls the saw into the wood and provides the most control. Avoid the upper quadrant of the bar nose, which is the kickback danger zone. For bucking logs supported at both ends, cut from the top first about one-third through, then roll and finish from the bottom to avoid pinch.
Plan your cut and escape route before starting the engine. Identify where the wood will fall and ensure no people, pets, or structures are in the danger zone.
Chain Tensioning & Maintenance
Check chain tension every time you refuel. A cold chain should sag slightly but snap back into the groove when lifted. Loosen the bar nuts, adjust the tensioning screw until the snap test indicates proper tightness, then lift the bar nose while tightening the nuts. This prevents the bar from settling backward and loosening the chain.
Sharpen the chain every 2-4 hours of use or whenever cutting requires excessive pressure. Use a round file matching the chain pitch, maintaining the factory angle with each stroke. File in one direction only — pushing away from you and lifting on the return. Count strokes per tooth to maintain uniformity.
A dull chain is more dangerous than a sharp one. It requires more force, increases fatigue, and produces fine sawdust instead of chips — all signs that sharpening is overdue.
Shutdown & Storage
After completing work, engage the chain brake and let the engine idle for 30 seconds to cool. Shut off the engine using the stop switch. Store the saw on its side or hanging by the handle — never rest weight on the bar or chain.
Empty the fuel tank or add stabilizer if storing longer than 30 days. Remove the chain and bar for cleaning, then apply light oil to prevent rust. Cover the bar and chain with a blade guard. Store in a dry location out of reach of children.